Homemade in an wood-fired oven
Photography by Rachel Clair
Here's where I tasted the most delicious Burek.
Travnik…
a smallish city that used to be the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina way back then. I came here without knowing much about this beautiful piece of land. Mountains surround the city; the ruins of the old castle are a short walk away from my homestay: Vremeplov -The Time Machine :) a wonderful place with lovely staff.
Here I asked where to eat,
There are so many places, but everyone told me to go to Ćevabdžinica Hariit; they serve the most delicious Cevapi, and to Kod Seje Restaurant, one of the very few places that serves traditional cooked Burek. It is made in a long open-fire oven; tins that hold Burek sit in the red, glowing coals, and the chef never takes his eyes off the exceptionally great handmade goods. Many variations of Burek are available, from vegetarian to spinach, cheese, and meat-filled, usually enjoyed with yoghurt to drink on the side and in good company. A few tables are set up, but plenty enjoy the great burek to take away and enjoy at home. Please note: it's a good idea to come hungry; the portions are massive, and it is the best Burek I've had so far.
Travnik itself is a beautiful town to visit; history is all over, and I spend lots of time walking and discovering the city. Besides the city, there are many great nature spots nearby that are easily reachable by car. And behind the old castle walls lies a wonderful viewpoint that is more or less easily accessible on foot. Don’t forget to bring some good shoes!
The route I took? I went first to the famous city of Mostar, followed by Tuzla, which I reached by a very, very comfortable train. Near Tuzla, I went diving in an out-of-this-world beautiful lake that used to be a coal mine, but more about that later. I rented a car for a few days, got lost for a little while, and visited the Bijimbare Caves along the way; I got to witness the amazing nature Bosnia offers.
So many rivers and waterfalls to see; I love that locals are actively enjoying nature with lots of sports and, of course, BBQ and camping. Bosnia is the must visit country for every outdoor enthusiast.
In the very short time I had, I witnessed so many breathtaking sights; I can't point to one spot and say, " This is the place to go to". The food, no matter where I went, was exceptionally good; the coffee is strong and delightfully enjoyed at any given time of day - drinking coffee is here more celebrated as a ritual and usually in good company. Bosnia has a tranquil face, with outstanding nature, incredible cities, and lots of history.
I didn't plan to go to Bosnia, but as plans go and change beautifully sometimes, I got the chance to travel to this breathtaking country.
I obviously can’t wait to be back soon.
Last update 29.08.2026
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Discover Bologna on foot and shop at the street market in the beautiful heart of Italy's food capital.
Burek and the best place to tingle your taste buds with delight in Zadar the Lo-Cal Grill
Discovery under the surface with SSI Dive School Diving Pulain Croatia
Homemade Gelato- a delight on a hot day in Roma
Ombak, the Zero Waste Cafeat the beachfront with island flair in Indonesia.